The handcrafts of Kilis connect the rich past of the city with the culture of today.
Embroidery work
No doubt many tears have been shed over the tight fabric that covers embroidery frames. Suppressed emotions, fears, excitement, untold dreams will all have been witnessed by these frames, held in the hands of brides-to-be as they work away on their trousseau. The tradition of embroidery work in Kilis is deeply rooted in the past.
The young girls, positioned either side of the frame, work on different designs depending on their experience. The various techniques used are known by names such as ‘rat’s tooth’, ‘fence almond’, ‘lentil’, ‘ciğerdeldi' liver holes’, ‘snowball’ and ‘canvas’. Geometric shapes, plants, flowers, fruit and animal figures are stitched in a pattern on the fabric depending on the ensemble being worked on. They create an expression of the dreams and hopes of the embroiderer.
Yemenicilik (making of traditional leather shoes)
One of the traditional handcrafts still surviving today in Kilis is the making of traditional leather shoes. Although ‘Yemeni’ means a kind of head covering in many parts of Anatolia, in this area it refers to a flat-heeled leather shoe. Yemeni shoes, with their soft leather upper and thick leather soles, are both comfortable and therapeutic. They are made from high quality materials which absorb sweat and earth the body. Sadly, as fashion concepts change, the demand for the decorative shoes of the past is dropping and the art of ‘yemenicilik’ is vanishing.
Yemeni shoes are made using the leather from different animals. The soft upper of the shoe is made from a kidskin, known as ‘havır’, the hard sole from buffalo or cowhide, known as ‘gön’, and the lining from sheepskin. First the sole is prepared using layers of leather, then the upper is stitched to the sole using a double steel needle, and the shoe is shaped on a last. The leather is then softened by using a shoemaker’s iron ball, and adjustments are made using a curved knife. Finally, the sides are soaped and the shoe is polished using a substance called ‘ihval’, obtained from a hardwood tree.
Classic yemeni shoes are black or red, but they are often seen in other colours, especially yellow, and are also named according to their colour and shoe-size. ‘Anabi’ (purple), ‘gül şeftali’ (rose peach), ‘narçiçeği’ (pomegranate) and ‘bayrak kırmızısı’ (flag red) are particularly striking.
Yorgancılık (Quilt making)
A favourite item in a girl’s trousseau is the embroidered satin quilt, a tradition which continues today in Kilis. Quilt making has become a sector in its own right, contributing to the city’s economy. It started at home, with the women using fine needlework to produce a variety of embossed motifs on the quilts. Later the men opened quilt making workshops and the industry developed into its present form.
The outer surface of the quilt is made from glossy atlas satin, the lining from cotton calico. For the upper side, silk satin, satin or slipper satin is used, depending on preference. The technique of placing a layer of fibre between the quilt surface and the lining has recently been introduced. The pattern on the quilt is usually focussed around the central area, known as the ‘göbek’ (belly). The number of motifs used is endless; daisy, symmetrical daisy, bird, peacock, date palm leaf, date palm branch, tulip, tulip-decorated vase, carnation, violet, stylized leaf, weather vane, watercourse, sun, cage, interlacing, arabesque, spiral, bow, pear. All these are used to embellish the glossy, silky surface of the quilt. The value of the quilt increases with the amount of embroidered stitching.
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Kilis Cuisine
‘Kübbülmüşviye’, ‘Kübbüllebeniyye’, ‘Şıhılmahşe’, ‘Bıkbıkıyye’, ‘Höbbüllüp Datlı Malhuta’, ‘Ekşili Malhıta’, ‘Müceddere’, ‘Köllük Aşı’, ‘Teşrube’, ‘Semirsek’, ‘Şişperek’, ‘Züngül’, ‘Gerebiç’..
The list goes on and on… like words from a tongue-twister.
To any person not from Kilis, these words give no clue as to their possible delights, but to a local person they are an invitation to a feast, especially with the addition of hot ‘kübban’ or ‘şapata’ unleavened bread, fresh from the oven.
The cuisine of Kilis, like the location of the city, is a mid-point. Tastes and flavours carry influences from both Syria and Antep, but according to locals of Kilis, it is a unique and wonderful cuisine, resembling that of neither Aleppo nor Antep. In reality, even though the Kilis cuisine has some Halep and Antep influences, it certainly has its own idiosyncratic character. Even when a dish goes by the same name as in the neighbouring cities, the taste will be slightly different in Kilis.
The main ingredients in Kilis dishes are meat and bulgur (cracked wheat). Even vegetable dishes are often cooked with bulgur and meat. As is common in the rest of this region, dried vegetables, which have been prepared for the winter months, play an important role in the Kilis cuisine, and when stuffed, these vegetables are simply delicious. Vegetables such as aubergine, marrow, courgette, peppers, carrot, cabbage, and vine leaves are stuffed with wheat, bulgur, and rice mixtures. The resulting taste is a reflection of the amount of effort spent in the preparation. The people of Kilis also have a particular love for stuffed intestines. The Kilis cuisine is noted for having as many different kinds of ‘köfte’ (meat/vegetarian dumplings) as it does stuffed vegetable dishes. ‘Köfte’ can be with or without meat; çiğ (raw) köfte, lentil köfte, olive oil köfte, oven-baked köfte, skewered köfte are just a few. The kebabs and dishes are commonly flavoured with hot pepper, sweet pepper, cinnamon, cumin, and coriander. There is a wide variety of ‘sulu yemek’ which are liquid-based dishes that use yoghurt or tomato puree, and also numerous types of ‘musakka’ and ‘bastırma’ (kinds of ragout). To finish off the feast, there is a mouth-watering array of desserts such as ‘katmer’ (fried pastry parcels filled with cream), ‘künefe’ (shredded pastry, soft cheese and syrup) or ‘billuriye’ (shredded pastry and pistachio nuts).
The geographical location of Kilis is an important factor in shaping the cuisine of the area. The vineyards, olive groves, and crop fields all provide the traditional products used in the kitchen. Findings from the many excavations in the area show that the use of pistachio nuts, grapes, olives, pulses and various wheat products dates back to ancient times. Of all the traditional delicacies found in Kilis, ‘pekmez’ (grape molasses) and sweets made from ‘şire’ (grape juice and starch), both produced from the vines laden with grapes, must be at the top of the list. Three types of ‘pekmez’ are produced; ‘yaş pekmez’ (made from fresh grapes), ‘sıcak pekmez’ (hot pekmez) and ‘gün pekmez’ (thickened in direct sunlight), the last of which is particularly associated with Kilis. Many sweet delights are made using ‘şire’ and they are named according to their shape, such as walnut ‘sucuk’ (sausage-shaped), ‘muska’ (triangular), ‘dilme’ (sliced), ‘kesme’(chunks). ‘Tatlı tarhana’ and varieties of sultanas and raisins are among the traditional products of Kilis. The olives of Kilis, and the olive oil they produce, are considered to be among the best in the area.
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